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ASKED 05 Feb 2018

Question:

I have a 2013 fiesta 1.5 Tdci. A few months ago the car started making a strange rumbling after I have rolled to a stop, sometimes accompanied by a whining noise similar in sound to a windscreen washer pump. Having covered 60000 miles I put this down to wear in the release bearing, as the car moaned when pulling away. I have had the clutch replaced a few days ago and the car still has this problem. Can you shed any light on this please?

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ASKED 19 Jul 2017

Question:

Please can you tell me why after Jennings @Stockton gave my car an update i paid for and then it was in your workshop for 11 weeks. In that time they diagnosed the problem wrong three times 1st saying it was throttle body then the wiring and then fitted 3 faulty instrument clusters. i got my car back and it still didnt feel right. Had it back two days and the Cam belt apparently failed. i have asked for photos of cam belt broken several times and as yet after 6 calls to dealer have yet to receive them

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ASKED 03 Mar 2017

Question:

Hello All, I would appreciate suggestions for the possible cause and solution to an electrical issue. I recently bought a Ford Fiesta Titanium 1.4 TDCi (09). When I returned home I notice the near-side door mirror indication wasn't working. It folds on lock but the light didn't work. I removed the outer casing and replaced the bulb. This didn't fox the problem but then I noticed further back into the mirror a cable was un-plugged so I corrected this and hey presto. I tested the lights using the hazard button, which worked perfectly. When locking/unlocking the car the mirrors fold in/out and the indicator lights pulse as they should. Unfortunately I have noticed the wing mirror light stays on permanently when the car is running. I am a little stumped as they appeared to work correctly for the tests I did. Any suggestions to the case would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks, -Duncan

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ASKED 03 Mar 2017

Question:

Just purchased on 08 plate Fiesta 1.25 zetec from local garage - engine cuts out in 1st gear when coming to a halt. Embarrassing as others think I've stalled it!! Garage said the Idle Control Valve just needed cleaning, but even tho they did that it still happens on the odd occasion which is most odd and very frustrating! Would it be better to replace the valve entirely? Someone else has suggested a Vehicle Speed sensor, but have no idea how that would help! Any suggestions please as really love the car but feeling anxious every time I get to traffic lights/junctions now! Thanks

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ASKED 03 Mar 2017

Question:

Ford Focus ST 2015 running baddley in hot weateher, loosing power, thretening to stall when just ideling etc. Ford say that the "front vents or intake" in the bumper is bent so tehy do not open to cool. Car is only 2 month old and being told I must hav ehit something, an dthey will not fix. I did not hit anything, and there is no visable damage to bumper. Does this sound correct, that air vents coudl be damaged even without knowing it?

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ASKED 03 Mar 2017

Question:

Sorry a couple of faults with my ford focus estate y reg recently I have heard a strange clicking noise coming from around the cam belt area not sure if it needs changing I bought the car about a year ago and don't know if it needs changing. Now recently the battery light comes on when slowing down then stalls this doesn't happen to often just occasionally also the central locking seems to operate when driving..can you please advise me what to do.

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ASKED 03 Mar 2017

Question:

Hi had to change the battery on 52 plate focus ghia as the old one kept dying, bought the appropriate battery and fitted, now on starting the rpm goes up to 1800 and after 20 secs or so goes back down to 800 ish, but when i am driving the rpm is fluctuating high sometimes and when i clutch to change down the rpm continues to stay high and the same at traffic lights its hitting 1800 and then taking 20/30 secs to drop to 800? there seems to be nothing wrong with air intake!! any ideas? thank you.

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ASKED 03 Mar 2017

Question:

Hi. I have a 2013 Kia Souls Shaker with 20k on the clock, last serviced at Washington. Over the last two weeks there have been two occasions when there has been a loss of power, when I changed gear power returned but after about 3 miles the engine cut out completely, this happened again today with the loss of power & the engine cutting out completely. On each occasion I have waited a few seconds & the engine has started again & performed without further problems. I have re-fueled with Diesel in between each time this has happened.

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ASKED 03 Mar 2017

Question:

I have a Cmax 05 plate with a 2 litre Duratec petrol engine. Recently my temp gauge is slow to rise & does not go above the quarter mark, also the air con heater seems cooler than usual. I assumed the thermostat is stuck open & have been advised that it will need replacing together with the gasket & housing, however I have also been told the work will involve replacing the drive belt which makes it a costly repair. Can you advise me if this is correct or am I being asked to pay for unnecessary work?

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ASKED 03 Mar 2017

Question:

Hi The console on the driver side door which controls the windows and side mirrors isn't working. The light on it is flashing on and off (3 seconds on then 4 seconds off) When the light is off the front drivers side window and the mirrors won't work but the other 3 windows work fine whether the light is on or off So, I've discounted that its a fuse issue and don't think it can be a loose connection as the other windows are working fine and the light going off and on is uniformed to the one 3 secs then off for 4 secs. Any ideas what the issue is? Thanks in advance

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ASKED 03 Mar 2017

Question:

I topped up the coolant of my 2004 Ford Mondeo DURATEC HE and after driving it noticed that large amounts of the coolant was leaking / pouring from water coolant reservoir. I also notice the engine is extremely hot however radiator is not hot at all. I left the car running and did not notice the radiator fan switching on. The temp gauge in dash is normal (in the middle around 90 deg), any suggestions?? Did i maybe just put too much coolant in? Should the radiator heat up?

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ASKED 03 Mar 2017

Question:

Hi. I've got ford street ka on 55 plates. I've bought it few months ago. First the engine lights started to come of and off. It was showing cylinder 1 misfire. I had all the plugs and coils replaced. It was better for few weeks and now the engine light came on after feeling shaking on the steering wheel and today the rpm needle wasn't going down straight away but after 2-3 seconds. Then it wasn't going down completely and was stuck in about 1.5 when I was stopping on the lights. I've stopped the car and rev it to about 4 and then it was better but engine light is still on. What can it be?

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ASKED 03 Mar 2017

Question:

when I enter 2006 Mazda 2, Ford comes up - probably because, at the time, Ford owned a proportion of Mazda and there are common parts used in both so, I am hoping that the problem that we have, with our 2006 Mazda 2, is one that is shared with the Ford Fiesta. We have never had any problems with the electronics so, when today, after using the car all morning, it would not start. Underneath the mileage digital display, the letters EAC came up. The breakdown man, after having checked all the fuses, said that it was the immobiliser and towed me home. When I turn the key, I can hear a clicking noise - near the bonnet release lever in the passenger well - followed by a whirring noise. I, honestly, don't think that he really knew what the problem was, and was clutching at straws. Can anyone give me some indication of what might be wrong? Thank you so much.

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ASKED 03 Mar 2017

Question:

I have had a problem with the battery warning light on my car. When I tried to open the bonnet the catch was jammed so it took about 20 mins to open the bonnet. When I finally opened it the engine cover was cracked and loose with holes in it. The were also other loose bits under the bonnet which didn't seem to be attched to anything. The last time the bonnet was opened was during air con repair at my usual ford dealer in August. I am really angry that this damage has occurred. The bonnet catch could break accidentally but it is not possible to leave all those cover plates loose under the bonnetaccidentally. What is the best way to complain?

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ASKED 03 Mar 2017

Question:

Dear people of JenningsFord, I recently had a leakage fixed (t-stat housing & t-stat replaced by Ford dealer) After that I'm having some trouble with my fans and cooling. I went back three times and they could not find the cause of this particular problem. Perhaps you have an idea? Whenever I start driving (engine cold) and get on to the highway everything is fine (cools like a charm!) Scenario: engine heats up to 100 degr.C -> Fan 1 kicks in (temp. stays normal) At about 120 km.h. temp. rises to about 110 degr.C Fan 2 kicks in and temp. engine stays normal (108 degr.C) BUT when I leave the highway and come into slower traffic (temp. between 100-110 degr.C) both cooling fans keep running (A/C off!) and temp. stays above 100 degr.C Demanding quite a lot of power of the engine (display sometimes flickers) When I pull over and let the engine idle for a while temp. drops slowly and both fans only shut off below 110 degr.C When I take it to the Highway again temp. rises to about 112-116 degr.C and does not go down unless I lower my speed. What could be the cause of such a problem? A bad relay (if so which one?) or a faulty resistor (fanshroud) or even a problem with the A/C?

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